DIY Modern Coffee Table (that is a CB2 horseshoe table dupe!)

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This post is all about how to make a modern coffee table (on a budget) that is a dupe for the CB2 horseshoe table.

Table of Contents

We’ve been in the market for a contemporary coffee table ever since we moved into our new house but were hesitant to buy one simply because of how FREAKIN expensive they are! You can easily spend hundreds of dollars on a modern coffee table for your living room. A unique table can really elevate a room, so one day I might spend an arm and a leg on a coffee table.

But this is not that day.

I’ll also explain how to replicate the exact finish that is on the CB2 table since that is what I originally covered my table with. Here’s what it looked like before I changed it to a DIY stone table:

This post probably contains affiliate links, but only on items that I use or would recommend. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Full disclaimer here.

I made my very own modern coffee table with a faux concrete finish and curved edges- all for less than $135. In this post, I will show you how you can make any size modern table that you want, and I have also included a video tutorial and plans at the end of this step-by-step guide.

I LOVE unique coffee tables that have a rounded, waterfall edge. They have a retro look, while also being trendy and modern. I found the CB2 horseshoe table and thought it was absolutely perfect for our space. With its curved edges and either black or white linen lacquered finish, it was so cool that I HAD to find a dupe for it. Also, it was out of stock and may possibly be discontinued.

Keep reading to know the steps to make an easy coffee table.

I found some similar options from Crate and Barrel, West Elm, and Anthropologie, but needed an affordable version of that space-age-looking table. Read more about contemporary coffee tables here and here.

Although I decided to make a coffee table on a budget, I have linked some really cool options below if you are looking to buy one instead of making a cheap, DIY table.

Tables With Curved Edges I Like:

Supplies for a DIY modern coffee table:

23/32 Plywood (used for support)
4×8 ¼ inch plywood (used to cover table)
screws
3.5 x 3.5 wood post (used for frame) or 2×4
hardboard (used for inside legs- could also use any leftover plywood)
circular saw
jigsaw
drill
drill bits
miter saw (maybe)
wood glue
spackle
putty knife
FibaTape
Paint
Bucket lid or round object to trace curves
Sanding Block

For Lacquered Linen Finish:

Comb and Semigloss Paint

For Faux Concrete Finish:

Sherwin Williams Urbane Bronze half-pint, flat (any grey will work)
Valspar swiss coffee half-pint (or any white)
Baking soda

How do you make a waterfall edge coffee table?

Below are the exact steps I used to make my DIY modern coffee table. Now, you may need to modify the measurements based on the size of the table you are making. You could follow this tutorial to make a console table, end table or any type of table you want- you just need to pay attention to your measurements and adjust them to whatever size you are making.

Adjust Measurements to Your Space

Since I wanted a dupe for a high-end coffee table, I based my measurements from the CB2 table, which had a length of 46, width of 30, and height of 16. I then modified those measurements for my space, which ended up being 42x26x17.

Also, you will need to adjust your measurements based on the thickness of the boards you are using. I used scrap lumber that I either had left over from another project, or I found at the end of someone’s driveway because they were about to throw it away.

Use Budget-Friendly Supplies

Scrap lumber is SUPER easy to find on the side of the road if you are looking… and I wanted to make this coffee table for CHEAP. The boards I used for the frame are 3.5, severe weather deck posts, and it costs around $50 to buy one from a hardware store.

A 2×4 works just as well and it’s only $4.

Save where ya can. Know what I mean?

Keep in mind that I am no professional, so if you are then you might be able to use this as a guide to finding an easier way to create a wooden coffee table.

DIY Coffee Table Plans

Step 1: Make the sides of your waterfall edge table

Draw two rectangles on the thickest piece of plywood that are the length and height you want your table to be.

Then, with your circular saw, you are going to cut the two rectangles out.

A wise man once told me to measure twice and cut once. You want to draw your lines straight, then cut them straight as you can. But, if you make a mistake, you probably won’t be able to tell at the end. Just do your best.

Next, just worry about one of the rectangles. You will make one side of the table first, then you can just use it as a template to trace the shape on your other rectangle.

Draw in the legs.

Draw the underside of the table but don’t worry about the rounded edges yet. It should look like a blocky, upside-down “U” shape. I traced the thickness of my 3.5x 3.5 board twice so that the thickness of my table would be a uniform 7 inches on both the top and the legs. If you are using a 2×4, you could trace the width of that twice, which would make your table 8 inches thick. Or you could just measure and make straight lines. It’s really up to you how thick you want your table to be.

sled table diy — The blocky, upside-down “U” shape is in green. Kinda hard to see- sorry!

Add some curved edges.

Now you need to round out the corners on the top and underside of your table. You could use a compass, or any circle-shaped object you can trace, but you need to find that goldilocks size that will allow you to add some curvature to the edges without compromising the uniform thickness of the table. For mine, I used a bucket lid that had a 12-inch diameter. This worked fine for the outside edges. It should be fairly easy to line up your circle if you use the rectangle shape as a guide.

I needed something a little smaller to round out the inside corners, so I used a coffee lid. Don’t overthink some of this stuff, whatever looks good to you should be fine.

Cut out the side of your curved table you just sketched.

When you get the shape exactly how you want it, go ahead and cut it out. I used my circular saw for the straight parts and my jigsaw on the curves. If you get off the line a little bit, the plywood overlay we put on at the end should somewhat camouflage it.

Trace the shape you just cut out onto the other rectangle and cut it out.

You should now have two identical upside-down “U” shapes that will be used for the sides of the table.

Step 2: Cut out a “support” tabletop

This should be cut out of the same plywood you used to make the sides.

If you are making a coffee table that has the same dimensions as mine, this will be 32×24. If you are using different dimensions, you need to make the length the same as the size of the flat part (not the curves) of the top of your table. The width should be the width you want your table, minus the thickness of the two plywood “U” shapes on the sides.

You are going to put this between the tops of the two “U” shapes when you build the frame in the next step. I also cut a second piece for the underside of my table, but it really isn’t necessary since you will never see underneath it unless you are laying on the floor.

Step 3: Make a frame for your unique table

Now, use the lumber to anchor the side pieces together. You will need 6 pieces cut the width of the table, minus the thickness of the plywood on each side. You can use your miter saw to cut these, or have them cut at the hardware store beforehand.

Attach the “U” shapes together by drilling them into the ends of the lumber. Start at the very bottom by attaching one to each outside edge. Next, two more at the top, but move them down from the edge so that you will have enough room for the support tabletop to rest on top of them while being flush with the top of the “U” shapes.

Now attach two more pieces, (one on each side) right below where the curve ends on each side. Unlike the ones on top, these should be flush with the edge.

Step 4: Screw in the support tabletop

If your measurements are correct, this should lay perfectly on the top beams you just screwed in.

Step 5: Make the overlay from the thin plywood

kerf cutting — This is what it looked like before the kerf cuts.

Measure the outside of the “U” and cut the thin plywood accordingly. For me, this was two separate pieces. Make sure this is the exact width of the table and make sure the grain runs WITH the waterfall edge. This is extremely important for the next step and would look nice if you plan on using a stain.

step 6: Add kerf cuts to the thin plywood

To get that curved edge table, you need to add kerf cuts to the thin plywood overlay that you are going to cover your table with. Kerf cuts are perforations that are cut into the wood to make it more flexible, and it must be flexible enough to bend over the curves of the table. I was SUPER INTIMIDATED by this step. I watched YouTube videos, called my dad, and tried it about 10 times before it worked… but I got it!

Here are the two things I figured out:

The kerf cuts must go across the grain.
Your circular saw must cut through about 80% of the thickness of the wood for this to work.

Practice this on a scrap piece of wood first and try different depth settings on your circular saw to see what works best. For me, the best depth was justttt before the 1 on my saw. My dad also told me it might help to spray some water along the cuts on the front and back of the board before I screwed it into the table, just to give it a little more flexibility. So, I did that too.

You only need to do a row of these cuts where the curves are, so measure the outside of the table and see how far up the curve starts and ends. Mark these points on your thin plywood and make kerf cuts between them.

My kerf cut space for the outside pieces was about 8.5 inches, so I marked that off and used the width of my ruler to draw lines at every inch between them. Then I went between those and marked out every half inch. Then I said my prayers and made a kerf cut on each line.

I didn’t stay perfectly on the lines I drew, but it still worked just fine.

step 7: Screw down the overlay

Start at the bottom and work your way up.

The screws should anchor into the beams of the frame and the support tabletop. I also added wood glue to the curved edges for extra support.

step 8: Make the inside of the legs.

Now look, if all you overachievers out there wanna repeat the steps above and do kerf cuts for the underside of the table, that would look great. However, I was over it at this point, so I took the lazy way out and just built up the sides only. In the end, it doesn’t really show that much.

I got the hardboard thinking I could manipulate it to curve without making kerf cuts. I was wrong. Even though it’s pretty flexible, it didn’t curve much at all, and I ended up wasting a piece of it.

So, the easiest thing to do is just cut it to fit each leg, just before you get to the curve, and screw it down.

step 9: Clean up any overhangs with your jigsaw.

If there is any wood that’s hanging over the edge of your homemade table, clean it up carefully with your jigsaw. You can also smooth out any rough edges if you need to.

step 10: Spackle the screws and tape your seams.

Unless you are staining the table you made, you’ll want to add mesh tape to the seams of the table for a more polished look at the end. You could just use spackle to fill in seams, but I wouldn’t recommend it since it could crack over time from pressure being applied to the tabletop.

After applying the tape, cover any harsh edges, screws, and tape with spackle. Let dry until the spackle has turned completely white. In the meantime, think about what finish you would like on your modern DIY coffee table.

step 11: paint, stain or another finish to the table you made at home!

If you are creating a plaster, stone, or cement textured table, go ahead and cover it with the spackle, let dry, then buff with a sanding block. If you are painting it, simply buff out any rough areas and paint it!

DIY Coffee Table Paint Ideas

CB2 Inspired Lacquered Linen Finish:

This is the finish I put on my contemporary table before changing it to the faux concrete finish. If you are going this route, cover the table with your joint compound or spackle, then use a comb to make a texture to make it look like it is covered in raffia.

I really like this because it easily hides any imperfections, while giving it an expensive-looking finish. When the spackle is dry, use a paintbrush to paint your table with the color of your choice. Satin or semigloss will really seal in that plaster, but a flat would work too.

I painted mine with my favorite paint color, Valspar Swiss Coffee, because I had some leftover from painting my walls and cabinets. However, after having my table in my living room for about a week, I felt like with all the other white in the space, it was just too much.

But, if you want that CB2 look, this finish is pretty much spot-on.

Faux Concrete Table:

I recovered the table with a thin layer of spackle, then sanded it with a sanding block to make it a little smoother, (not perfect, I liked the plaster texture) then set out to find paint.

I knew I wanted something darker, so I went to Lowes to find a discounted premixed paint color I liked. Sherwin Williams Urbane Bronze was on sale for like $2.50 and it fit the bill. Then, I mixed in just a touch of black, since it is a very warm grey. I also mixed in about a tablespoon of baking soda to roughen up the texture a little bit. I put on one coat of paint, let it dry, then mixed a little water with my paint to touch up any areas that needed a second coat. Adding the water helped the paint seep into the nooks and crannies of the plaster.

When that was dry, I mixed water and my white paint (Swiss Coffee) with just a pinch of baking soda to add the stone finish. The less water you use, the opaquer the white will be. My mixture was about 85% water. I brushed one coat of that on top of the gray. I might decide to seal it in the future, but it is holding up fine so far.

Nothing says modern DIY coffee table like a concrete finish.

Veneer Covered Table:

If you have money to blow, covering your table with veneer yourself would make it look so EXPENSIVE and pretty. Veneer is paper thin pieces of wood you can cut and glue easily- think like, a guitar finish. You can purchase unfinished veneer that you can stain and finish, or get some that is ready to use. Here are some options I contemplated: